And, as the fates so ordained, it happened while I was here.

One of the reasons I was determined to make a February pilgrimage to O’ahu was to witness (as an adult) the big waves on the North Shore, which can deliver 40- and 50-foot faces during the winter months. Yesterday was one of those days, marking a “go” for the mythic surfing competition, and the 31st annual, “Quiksilver,” honoring the memory, legacy and spirit of the Hawaiian demigod and surfing legend, lifeguard Eddie Aikau. Around here, this most famous of surfing events is simply known as “The Eddie.”

Though I was born on this island and lived here a couple of times during my childhood, sadly, I never learned to surf. Better informed accounts will be written about yesterday’s already classic event by surfing insiders who have not only mastered the sport, but who also know the culture and its fearless star performers first hand. They will write knowingly about how they’ve been waiting for ideal conditions to run this event since the last one was held in 2009. How yesterday’s early morning churn gave way to crisper sets that sent the world’s best surfers sliding down slippery faces, while 6 or 7 jet-skis manned by the famed Hawaiian Water Patrol raced towards the beach to outpace avalanching, crushing walls of water. I don’t have the context or the expertise to put what I witnessed yesterday into proper perspective. All I can say is that surfing scholars and aficionados will call it “epic.” And finally, I understand why.

When I heard the Eddie might go, I gave up on my idea of traveling everywhere by foot or the Bus. With only a few days remaining before I travel back to the Mainland, and only a few days left before this year’s window would close for running the Eddie, I couldn’t risk not getting there in time. Instead, I went to Enterprise rental on Kapi’olani and booked a small car. With 10,000+ spectators expected to crowd the beach and the narrow roadway leading to Waimea Bay Beach Park, I drove to the North Shore on Wednesday night to scope out my vantage point in advance. I was prepared to hike the 8 miles from my evening sojourn at Turtle Bay (another blog post!) if traffic was too heavy or parking impossible on Thursday morning.

Setting up and waiting for the ‘bay to call the day.”

The fabled Waimea Bay.

Camping overnight to secure prime viewing spot.

Cliffside “cave-dwellers” camp out to reserve prime spectator position.

In the end, I got there by nesting the little Nissan in free public parking at the Pipeline, then walking the two and half miles on to Waimea Bay. Without the walk, I would have missed the street carnival atmosphere that makes this event absolutely unique in the world of sports. It’s a world where the 23-year-old winner actually rode his bike through the dark streets of his hometown to reach the “venue” on the morning of the big day. Fitting, because it perfectly captures the vibe of the sport, the spirit of Eddie Aikau, and the ethos of O’ahu’s North Shore. Truly, one my favorite places on earth.

My starting time, just outside the gates of Turtle Bay Resort.

Along the hike towards Waimea Bay from the Pipeline, Pupukea is covered with the frothy churn from crashing waves.

One of countless campers along the way.

Homage to famous surfer Brock Little who lost his battle to cancer days before the event.

Beautiful Catholic church on the hill overlooking the Bay (and the surfers who face unbelievably extreme conditions).

Final stretch of hikers and campers just before reaching my viewing spot, along the rail overlooking the Bay. The ground in front of the railing and the safest spots on the beach had already been snagged by the time I arrived just after sunrise. According to official estimates, the crowd of spectators mushroomed from the projected 10,000 to over 25,000.

The awe-inspiring Waimea Bay greets me upon arrival. As they say, the Bay calls the day, and lucky for me, the Eddie was a go! I was both stunned and thrilled.

Visit the embedded links of this blog post to learn more about this, yes epic, event and the so-called “gladiators with boards” who take on the world’s most powerful and unpredictable adversary. My photos unfortunately just don’t capture the scale nor the might of these unbelievable swells, so please also enjoy the linked photos from the brave and talented photographers who were (quite literally) immersed in the day’s surfing action (Quiksilver site). But, honestly, you can’t truly fathom a 60-foot wave until you see it in person. How lucky I was to be there and to take it all in – it was thrilling! I will never forget it.

The sky and sea around the time of the morning’s first heat.

Surfing icon Florida-born Kelly Slater surveys the roaring bay. Cameraman surveys Kelly. (Hopefully, a surfing insider will help me identify surfer number two in this shot.)

Haleiwa’s John John Florence studiously scans the break before taking the plunge. I learned later through news accounts just how nervous he was before he got out there.

John John paddles out to meet his first heat on a day he’d turn in the highest score.

Thank god there are people in this world like Eddie and his brother Clyde. Those who would go . . . at any cost. I witnessed about 20 of them yesterday. I’ll forever consider it my parting gift from this island I love so well.

66-year-old Clyde Aikau, a legend in his own right, heads out for what he claims will be his last Eddie.

A next-gen surfing champ is coronated on an epic day at Waimea Bay. The winner, North Shore native John John Florence.

#eddiewouldgo #eddieaikau #thequiksilver2016 #northshoresightings #johnjohnflorence